Saturday, August 13, 2011

Clemence to Clemenza with Waltzing in Between

Dinner. Lecture. Movie. Party.

After three road trips this week, I wanted a low-key Friday night nearby, which is how I ended up at the VMFA by 5:00.

When seated, I was instructed by the host to attract other barsitters and provide sparkling conversation once they arrived.

Can do.

After months of enjoying a sparkling Brut Rose at Amuse, tonight's offering was Clemence Guery Cremant, a Loire lovely with nice bubbles and fruit.

The bartender's recommendation led me to the shrimp and tilapia ceviche with salted plantain chips.

A nice-sized bowl of seafood, tomatoes and scallions offered up a refreshing acidity that made for a crisp summer meal.

The plantain chips were just as well thought out, thin, crispy and nicely salted to provide that element for the seafood.

Happily, I was joined by a couple of Napa Valley transplants (to Glen Allen, no less), leading to much talk of the wine they left and what we have in Virginia.

I don't want to brag, but between bartender Stephen and me, we had the guy drinking Keswick Cab Franc before the evening was over, no easy task. And he was seriously impressed.

For my next course, I had the cheese plate, a duo of cheeses from Maryland's Firefly Farms.

It paired housemade crackers with an ash-rind goat bleu and Merry Goat Round, a brie-style bleu along with local honey and a fig.

With a second glass of the Cremant (which the Californians tasted and loved), I was set.

The three of us were there for the Faberge-related lecture and movie and since they were novices to the event, they asked for my expertise on timing.

I assured them we could take it to the last possible minute given that only two floors separated us from our destination.

I had a couple date waiting for me in the theater with saved seats down in front.

Forensic biologist Dr. Michael Coble spoke on "CSI Faberge: Anastasia and Imperial Russian Family Forensics."

Coble did a terrific job of breaking down complex DNA testing procedures to their lowest common denominator and explained to us non-scientific types how they'd finally proven that the entire Russian family was indeed shot.

The idea that two of the Romanov children had survived the royal massacre was the basis of the film that followed, 1956's "Anastasia," which I'd never seen.

It told the (mostly true) story of a woman who had come forward in the 1920s claiming to be one of the daughters of the Tsar.

And because it was the fifties, naturally they got a Swede to play Anastasia (at least Yul Brynner was Russian).

The film had some surprisingly funny dialog, mostly from Helen Hayes as the Empress Dowager.

Favorite line: "You're disgusting! At your age, a woman's only thoughts of sex should be gender."

True, perhaps, in 1956, but I believe we get to think about sex any way we like for as long as we like these days.

Since I knew absolutely nothing about the movie, I quite enjoyed it, as much for its fifties Hollywood sensibilities as for the historical story it told.

And I always love waltzing scenes, of which there were several.

In fact, my only other reference point for Yul Brynner was "The King and I" and my favorite number was "Shall We Dance?" surely one of the most stirringly romantic songs/dances ever set to music.

After the show, my couple date and I went to Stuzzi where they had the music tuned to vintage 70s.

Oh, yes, we heard lots of disco and everything from Barry White to Boz Skaggs to America and Queen. It was something all right.

I was there for a party to celebrate a man I didn't meet until tonight, Clemenza, a chef who's cooked everywhere from Pasta Luna to Tribeca Grill.

He was being feted because he has just won one of those cooking show competitions (as if I know anything about cooking shows).

Out of an original pool of thousands, he was one of eighteen chosen to compete and he took the prize with, among other things, his rack of lamb.

He was charming and self-effacing and when we got to really talking, I got him to admit that his all-time favorite meal is a slice of cold pizza and a Pepsi.

That's an honest chef.

As part of the festivities, server (and VCU voice major) Steven did an operatic piece which had us all holding our breath for the beauty of his voice.

In Clemenza's honor, there was his signature pizza (portabella, caramelized onions, Fontina cheese and Napes peppers), which I had while the couple did the Forte (no doubt for the sopresetta and sausage).

We also had the potato and prosciutto croquettes ("croquettes with two strumpets" my corny friend proclaimed) and the polpettine meatballs al forno (veal, beef, pork).

And Prosecco, lots of Prosecco, to celebrate Clemenza.

I won't watch the show when it airs, but I will happily celebrate a man with mad cooking skills.

They're usually my favorite kind.

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