Cuttlefish with a VIew

Failure to find the sea ensures that we will eat nothing but seafood tonight.

As further consolation, we choose Erase, a restaurant that sits at the top of the cliff overlooking the road I took down to the marina this morning.

On a terrace with open windows and a view of the lights of Vesuvius, our waiter, a consummate and long time pro, inquires of our wine choice.

When I dare to mention a Nero d'Avola, he gasps.

"It's Sicilian!" he says with clear contempt.

Alrighty then. Once again we choose the local grape, this time I Feudi di Villanova.

Two large bowls of cuttlefish with celery and walnuts provide contrasting textures and please the Neapolitan no end.

Our waiter hovers until he is certain every bit has been consumed, kind of like my Richmond grandmother used to do to us as kids.

Gnocchi with zucchini and shrimp follows and the zucchini is so fresh tasting we feel sure it was picked yesterday.

A plate of broccoli rabe is bursting with flavor and perfectly sauteed.

Everyone raves about the seafood here (and deservedly so) but the local vegetables are every bit as noteworthy.

Both dishes have been huge and we find ourselves unable to order dessert.

It's been known to happen.

A walk follows, only there are not nearly as many people promenading tonight as there were Sunday when we last did this.

When enough time has lapsed, we head to Gelateria Gabriele for mousse, one chocolate, one coffee and eat them on a bench watching the street theater of Vico Equense.

It's loud, it's funny and it's very Italian.

I am used to it, since it's my third time at Gabriele (although only his first).

Yes, third. In three days.

Clearly I don't need to fit into my bathing suit, so why not?

If Vico can't give me the sea, it damn sight better give me the gelato.

And wine. Lots of wine.