Showing posts with label petersburg. Show all posts
Showing posts with label petersburg. Show all posts

Thursday, February 25, 2016

You Can Leave Your Hat On

As surprising days go, this one had a lot to recommend it.

Today's road trip took me to Petersburg in the pouring rain, to a house where Lincoln met Grant to talk about the end of the Great Unpleasantness. War mongering aside, I was there to try on hats and admire a rather eclectic and enormous collection of stuff that resided in this house.

After establishing that my head is a large - no surprise since this is something my sisters and I have always been known for, along with disproportionately long legs and short cracks - I tried on gorgeously wide-brimmed hats that had the effect of almost making me look like a Southern belle and cloche styles that evoked flappers.

There was even one black and straw hat similar to the one purchased by Lynda Carter, which was a particularly interesting coincidence since Wonder Woman figured prominently in my plans once I returned to the capital city.

That's right, VCU's Cabell Library had put Wonder Woman's Invisible Plane on display for today only, complete with background and history. If it tells you anything, it was displayed at the Smithsonian on April 1 last year.

Now here's the real joke: I knew nothing about Wonder Woman. Never read the comic, never saw the '70s show, never even knew the super-hero premise. Which was exactly why I thought it kind of important to attend Jill Lepore's talk on "The Secret History of Wonder Woman," also the title of her book, and gain a little insight on the subject.

That meant inserting myself into an auditorium with lots of students in it, students who actually said things like, "Yea, but then you're going to have to deal with a bunch of young millennials who are sweaty and drunk."

The superior-sounding guy who said this couldn't have been more than nineteen. Hysterical.

Better yet, Lepore's talk turned out to be just the kind of cultural history that fascinates me.

In short order, she explained '70s "jiggle TV," which included both "Wonder Woman" (her twin brother's favorite) and "The Man from Atantis" (hers), which apparently involved Patrick Duffy pre-"Dallas" in a yellow Speedo ("So he was practically naked") and moved back in time to the excessive violence of 1930s male-dominated comic books.

A public opinion poll asked if Wonder Woman should be allowed to join the Justice Society as a means of establishing a standard of strong and courageous womanhood and enough people said yes to make it happen.

Where things got interesting was with the writer, William Marston, an avowed supporter of women's rights, a man who said that women like Wonder Woman should rule the world. A man who as a college freshman had been a member of Men for Women's Suffrage. A man who lived not only with his wife, but with a graduate student with whom he fathered two children.

A man who also invented the lie detector, wrote silent films for D.W. Griffith, penned a book called "Emotions for Normal People" and then detailed why certain behaviors should be considered normal (they weren't at the time). An odd bird, for sure.

What was so compelling was how her research showed that it was Marston's interests - in women's voting rights, in porn, in bondage, in birth control - that were being popularized through the character of Wonder Woman in her sassy costume and kinky boots based on a Vargas Girl from "Esquire" magazine.

I tell you what, it was a damn informative lecture, all the more so for how Lepore repeatedly pointed out how little women's history is taught in our schools. Middle-aged woman throughout the room invisibly raised their fists in support.

She made a terrific case for Wonder Woman tying together first and second wave feminism, a lesson most of the students could have used had they not already dipped out.

Walking home afterwards was exciting in that way that weather suddenly takes precedence over everything else. A fierce wind was whipping my hair and skirt but it was also eerily warm with an incredibly menacing sky, no doubt a foreshadowing of the bad news that awaited me there.

Bingo at Gallery 5 was canceled. Aw, man. I love my bingo nights.

Just as I was allowing that change in my plans to sink in, the tornado sirens cranked up like we were in Oklahoma or something. And not once, but several times until finally the torrential winds and rain began and I couldn't see across the street anymore.

I'll be honest with you, though, initially I wasn't sure what the sirens meant. It's not like we hear them in Richmond much ever, but luckily we have the Internets to fill in the gaps in our knowledge.

My magic screen tells me there was a tornado in Chester at 5:52 that's supposed to pass over downtown/VCU at 6:10, so I figure I'll get cleaned up and go eat once the danger has passed.

Say, 6:20 or so.

Heading over to the Roosevelt, the sirens start up again, but in the distance, so I don't worry about it too much. It's not like there are cows or single-wides in the neighborhood to go flying past me, right?

Since the really pounding rain seems to come in waves, I spend time sitting in the car once I get to Church Hill, waiting for the rain to slacken enough to make a break for it. Even with flowered boots and a raincoat, I'm a little soggy on arrival.

Taking a seat at the bar, I find that most of the people around me are neighbors who'd sought refuge once they heard a storm was coming. Apparently it's less common to hear the sirens and leave for another neighborhood like some of us had.

Meanwhile, a woman near me was seriously freaked out, not by the potential of wind and rain damage, but by a yellow egg that kept showing up in different places around her house without her or her husband moving it. First it was on the table, then on the windowsill, then inside a candle with a lid on it and this was causing her some genuine consternation. Floorboards creaking at night weren't helping, either.

Trying to reassure her, I explained that my parents' house has a ghost - they even know her name: Bertha - and they've all peacefully co-existed for 32 years. You can't let a little thing like paranormal activity weird you out.

Turns out she could.

Just about the time I'd decided what I wanted for dinner, the bartender showed up with my Gabriele Rausse Vin de Gris and a recitation of the specials, which naturally changed my order entirely.

A warm, wet night like this felt beachy, you know, wild and watery, just perfect for a fried trout sandwich with hot sauce and cole slaw, the piece of trout hanging off the seeded bun by about three inches on either side, jutting into the fries.

Just what you ought to be eating when you have damp hair and bare feet inside rubber boots.

Next to me, a woman who lived four blocks away worked on a cheeseburger while we discussed the dining scene and how glad she was to have bought a house in Church Hill five years ago.

I still say it's too disconnected for my taste - I want to be able to walk most anywhere I might want to go - but I know plenty of people who like that about it.

Fish gone, I told the bartender I wanted dessert and he knew what I wanted without asking, or at least made the right guess. Trying to resist chocolate pudding with orange zest was futile, so I didn't.

"Wine and chocolate, it doesn't get much better than that, does it?" he inquired with a grin.

Actually, I hope it does.

Saturday, June 1, 2013

Upon a Midnight Pillow

It was exactly as I liked it.

A talented group of actors were putting on a Shakespeare play at Sycamore Rouge in Petersburg.

The room was small, the admission was free and none of the actors knew what play or role they'd have until they showed up at the theater.

Hell, the audience didn't even find out until 60 seconds before the play began.

Answer: "As You Like It," which I'd last seen in March of 2012.

Three of us drove down soul-sucking I-95 in time to get seats, but not all together.

And that's why we have discussions after the play is over.

What passions put these weights upon my tongue?

There were plenty of contemporary touches - a servant taking pictures with his cell phone, two ladies repeatedly high-fiving each other- and plenty of ad-libbing.

"He's an old one," quipped Orlando as his ancient servant Adam slowly trundled off stage. "He needs time."

Costumes were based on suggestions from the director, Adam Mincks, so we saw one character in shiny, yellow gym shorts with a matching headband, another with sideburns attached to the chin strap on his hat and a priest in a robe that looked more like a dress your aunt wore in the '70s.

Beauty provokes thieves sooner than gold.

There was a good amount of singing, sometimes to "Greensleeves" and sometimes to the theme from "Gilligan's Island" with a last minute ad-lib of "Mary Ann was hot" for those paying attention.

If I was a woman, I would kiss as many of you as had beards that pleased me.

The play was funny because, well, Shakespeare wrote comedy well, but also because the actors took every opportunity to milk their lines for everything they could.

And why shouldn't they?

If you can't mug for a devoted Shakespeare-loving audience on a Saturday night, you may as well hang up your couplets.

I was just thrilled to sit in the front row and watch the spit fly. And for free.

Fortune reigns in gifts of the world. True story.

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Yes, I Do Windows

There are art nerds and then there are hopeless art nerds and my photographer friend and I definitely qualify as the latter.

After we finished seeing the Tiffany exhibit at the VMFA back in June here, we (like probably a bazillion other visitors to that show) picked up a sheet mentioning that Virginia was full of Tiffany windows available for public viewing.

But unlike those who tossed that sheet or forgot all about it, we were determined to start the process of seeing them all, beginning with Blandford Church in Petersburg.

So on this beautiful rain-washed and windswept day, we took a leisurely drive down Route 1 past the trailer parks and tiendas to see what Tiffany had wrought in the name of Civil War memorial windows.

Our intention had been to eat at the Dixie Diner, but once again they were closed ("You just never know when they're going to be open," we were told), so we headed to nearby Longstreet's Deli and a sunny window table.

Today's special was a half club sandwich, cup of soup (Italian wedding, chicken/sausage gumbo or French onion) and fripps ("They're our house-made fried potato chips, but they're addicting," our server warned us).

And although I enjoy a good club sandwich, I rarely order one because it ends up being too much.

So a half sounded great (as did cheese-covered soup since the temperature had dropped 17 degrees since I'd walked this morning).

And, for the record, the thick sliced fripps were delicious, with far more potato taste than a typical house made chip

We ate and watched the clouds tearing across the sky as if they had somewhere to be, like Nebraska.

It was almost like an artsy time-lapse shot in a movie to indicate the passage of time, except that not much time was passing.

Arriving at Blandford, we were met by the Ladies Memorial Association decorating committee, two welcoming women working on the Visitors' Center Christmas tree.

When they learned that we were there because of the VMFA exhibit, we became the star visitors.

Apparently they had hoped to get a lot of residual guests as a result of the VMFA show but that hasn't really been the case.

Pity, really, because Blandford's windows made for as soul-satisfying an afternoon as did the museum show, with the bonus of being in a 1735 church with a glorious wooden vaulted ceiling.

Our tour guide, a charming women who's been doing it for five years and willingly gave her age as 76, provided more than facts and encouraged the closest possible viewing points so as not to miss a nuance of the works of art.

When the Ladies' Memorial Association began the project to restore the abandoned church as a memorial chapel in 1901, they conceived a plan where each of the Confederate States would provide funds for a window in memory of that state's Confederate dead.

For each window of the planned size for the chapel, Tiffany was charging $1800 at the time.

For this project, he dropped his price to $300 per window with a $35 packing/shipping/installation fee. It boggles the mind today.

Additionally, the faces, hands and feet of the saints depicted in each of the windows were hand-painted by artisans for the most realistic detail possible. In many cases, tiny painted rounds of glass were added at the last moment to add a three-dimensional element to the image.

We were astounded to learn that these magnificent windows had gone uncovered until the 1980s when Plexiglas was put on the outside of them.

Seventy years of Tiffany masterpieces undisturbed, not stolen, not shot out, with no rocks thrown through. Surely that's some sort of cosmic gift.

Up close with today's brilliant sunshine streaming through Tiffany's Opaline and gem-like colored-windows was even better than the VMFA exhibit in some ways.

The proximity, the natural light and the cohesiveness of the windows' themes were breath-taking.

The only state that hadn't managed to raise funds for a window was Kentucky, so Tiffany had created a small window with a cross on it in honor of the state's dead and charged the ladies only $100 for it.

Neutral states Maryland and Arkansas had smaller windows as well.

Walking out through first the Colonial cemetery and then the Civil War cemetery was like being in a rolling sea of gravestones.

After the war, when the Union made no provision to bury the Confederate dead, the L.M.A. spent twenty years burying 30,000 men's bodies in the hilly back of the church.

We were both surprised to learn that although Blandford is no longer an active parish, you can still be married there and buried in the cemetery ("You can end it either way here," one of us quipped).

Driving back out, I asked my friend if he wanted to be buried because I know I intend to be cremated.

"And scattered where?" he asked.

I think I'll leave that to the scatterer, presuming that he'll know me well enough to know my mind.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Road Tripping It Down Route 1

I guess I just needed a road trip.

After the reading this afternoon, I started thinking about where I might want to have dinner and what it came down to was where not what.

I felt like taking a drive.

But I had plans later, so there were some time constraints; I couldn't go as far as Fredericksburg or Charlottesville.

So I got cleaned up and decided to take a drive down colorful Route 1 to Petersburg to enjoy the road view and have a bite to eat.

Yes, I could have taken I-95 except that it sucks my soul to drive that road, so I reserve it for times it can't be avoided (hello DC).

Besides, if I'd driven 95, I would have missed the series of mid-century motels that once provided respite for north/south travelers.

Places like the Relax Inn, the Snow White Motel, The Martha Kay, The White House Motel, the Par 3 Motel and the wholesome-sounding Family Motel.

And the Sunrise Motel? Yep, it faced east.

I'd have missed the "Coin Laundry. Open 24 Hours. Air-Conditioned" sign. How long has that sign been up, do you suppose?

I wouldn't have seen the gun shop sign saying, "Conceal Carry Class Oct. 2."

Or the "Jefferson Davis Highway/Route 1/Welcome" banners all along the road, which actually tickled me.

I guess I'm not the only one who appreciates the scenic nature of the number one byway.

And certainly I wouldn't have had a guy in a black truck pull up next to me at a stoplight in Colonial Heights, smile right at me and say through our open windows, "You have some pretty teeth."

Sorry, but that kind of stuff just doesn't happen on the interstate.

Once I crossed the Appomattox, I stopped at the first restaurant I came to, Wabi Sabi and took a seat at the sushi bar, much to the staff's surprise.

Since I was there last, they'd added tapas to the sushi menu, so I decided to give a small plate a try.

After an above average house salad due to the roasted red peppers, abundance of red onion and grated cucumber and carrot, I enjoyed the lamb chops with North African and Middle Eastern spices with cucumber salad and kiwi sauce.

The dry rub was excellent and although the server tried to warn me that it was a tapas-size portion (3) and not an entree, it was plenty of food.

The kiwi provided the sweet complement to the savory spice of the chops.

And, yes, I sucked bones.

The owner chatted with me about the ghetto cheeseburger he'd just had (a slice of cheese on a hamburger bun) and the upcoming Hops Festival and how best to milk it.

Then he took his plate of sushi to his office to work and eat on a Saturday night.

Better him than me.

The drive back was just as compellingly scenic, except in a night-time kind of way.

The moon was out and the neon was on and I got a whole different perspective of Route 1 in the dark.

Not only did I satisfy my road trip jones, I had a nice meal in a place where I didn't know a soul, a rare occurence for me.

And did I mention that I now know where I can rent a crane?

Such is the beauty of a drive down Route 1.